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By: Kevin Eubanks
Description: Finding Bakersfield’s hidden wine gems

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Posted by Chris Thu Sep 18, 2008 13:46:04 PDT
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Bakersfield wine enthusiasts have options when it comes to purchasing their drink of choice, but many times the drop-off point on the way home from work for an exquisite bottle results in a stop at the grocery store. Of course, there’s nothing wrong with that in itself, but the selection is limited and a thirst for something a bit more special simply can’t be quenched.

The Gourmet Shoppe offers another level of quality and Costco even has some top-notch wines, but sometimes these stores aren’t convenient. There are small shops and hidden gems that might be unknown to many that offer that next level of wine throughout Bakersfield, most likely within a couple of miles from pretty much everyone inside the city limits.

We take this opportunity to introduce you to them, from the exceptional selection on the Eastside to the Downtown dynamo; from the Northwest newbie to the true hidden gem in the Southwest; and don’t forget about the shop on Ming Avenue known for its sandwiches, not its wine. After this, these somewhat unknowns should turn into regular stopping points for wine lovers throughout Bakersfield.

Country Club Liquors
3737 Columbus St.

A hidden Eastside gem, Country Club Liquors might be out of the way for many to head to for a quick wine run. But for those who live in Northeast Bakersfield, and for those who find themselves on the Eastside, a stop at Country Club Liquors is a must for one of the most diverse wine selections in the city.

Owner Jack Waters actually believes that his business would thrive in other parts of Bakersfield. “We’d do great if we were in the Southwest or the Northwest, but we do OK up here, too,” Waters said. “We’d boom out there, but we like the rent up here better.”

Waters has been in the liquor business for 48 years and was one of several people who were in on the beginning of the wine movement in Bakersfield. His selection of 500 wines shows exactly that. While Waters sells plenty of Silver Oak – like everyone else in town – look for some lesser-known but high-quality wines that Country Club Liquors features, such as the 1998 Paoletti Non Plus Ultra, which is a steal at $96.50.

Also look for Hanzell Vineyards’ excellent 1998 chardonnay ($49.50) or the 2004 Beaulieu Vineyard Private Reserve cabernet sauvignon that received a score of 95 from Wine Enthusiast ($96.50). Or check out the variety of imports such as the 1998 Chateau Petit Village Pomerol ($64.50), or one of a pair of stars from Italy’s Ruffino: a 1999 Brunello di Montalcino Greppone Mazzi sangiovese ($72.50) or the 2000 Modus ($75.95).

In addition to wine, Country Club also offers some of the best sandwiches in Bakersfield – be sure to try the White Cadillac – as well as a huge beer selection.

It’s About The Wine
9500 Brimhall Road

The new kid on the wine block is It’s About The Wine, and it seems to have just about everything that a specialty wine shop could ask for: location, selection and value. From its Northwest Bakersfield location in Brimhall Square – the same shopping center that houses Action Sports, Prime Cut and The Orchid – to its nearly 300 wines in stock, It’s About The Wine seems to have it all despite being open just nine months.

But the key selling point for It’s About The Wine is the ease in which a person can browse each wine selection. The entire store is arranged according to varietal and price point, which makes finding the perfect wine at the perfect price a cinch. “I wanted to make it easy to see things,” owner Mike Hefner said. “And I wanted to emphasize food pairings, which enhances the overall enjoyment of wine, which includes food and friends.”

Hefner is very particular about which wines to stock, and It’s About The Wine carries some wines that simply can’t be found anywhere else in Bakersfield. Try one of the best pinot noirs available in Bakersfield, the 2005 Goldeneye Anderson Valley ($54.99), or a rare Dominus 2004 Napa Valley cabernet sauvignon ($137.99) from the brilliant mind of Christian Moueix.

It’s About The Wine also carries great wines from such wineries as Far Niente, Silver Oak, Madorom, Caymus Vineyards, The Hess Collection and Star Lane Vineyard, and many more.


A Cellar Above
4711 Wilson Road

If you haven’t heard of A Cellar Above, or even noticed the sign while driving along Wilson Road, don’t feel bad. First and foremost, there is no sign that reads “A Cellar Above” in front of the store. Secondly, this little store where Stine Road dead ends into Wilson is probably better known for being a post office instead of a wine store.

But those who are in the know have been treated to owner Ron Bierman’s special collection of amazing wines from throughout California, many of which can’t be found anywhere else in Bakersfield. “I bring in the wines that I like,” Bierman said. “I like small, handcrafted wineries. I like to bring in wines with numbers; the ones that have rated well with Wine Enthusiast and Wine Spectator. I also like to bring in wines with aging potential.”

The result is a spectacular wine shop in a most unsuspecting location. The tiny shop crams hundreds of bottles in a confined space along with the post office section that shares the store. The odd combination originated when Bierman owned and operated Southside Pharmacy in the same location and had the post office inside. The pharmacy is gone, but the post office remains.

So when the need arises to ship a package before a dinner at home, kill two birds with one stone by selecting first class shipping before picking up a bottle of Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars 2002 Estate cabernet sauvignon ($152.99) or any other of Bierman’s impressive collection of hard-to-find and delicious wines from around California.

Brinks Deli
3803 Ming Ave.

Brinks might be just a tiny store that is known mainly for its excellent sandwiches and a crowded seating area at lunch in a large strip mall on Ming Avenue. And while some might notice the northwest corner of the store that is crowded with wines, few think of Brinks as one of Bakersfield’s premier shops for wine.

Unlike some of the other stores listed here, Brinks has a much smaller selection to choose from. But there’s no such thing as a bad wine at Brinks, even though they might not be from the most well known wineries in California. “I like to have unique and hard-to-find wines here,” Brinks owner Guy Ceresa said. “And we have more from Central California than ever before. It used to be all Napa and Sonoma.”

With selections of wine from Silver Oak Cellars, Eberle Winery, Opolo Vineyards and Twomey Cellars among others, it’s amazing that Brinks isn’t better known for its wine selection. But according to Ceresa, that’s exactly the case. “Most of our business comes from people who are here for lunch and take a bottle home for dinner.” But when the Brinks secret gets out, don’t expect that to be the case for long.

Westchester Liquors
2408 F St.

“You hunt for wines, that’s what you do.” It was just a simple statement made in passing by Bill Taylor, owner of Westchester Liquors since 1951, but it couldn’t ring more true for this Downtown Bakersfield hot spot for fine wines – or any wine for that matter. Taylor was discussing the importance of individuals finding wines that they enjoy, not what others deem to be quality. But in doing so, he touched on the exact reason why Westchester Liquors is such a treat.

Part of the fun of going to Westchester Liquors is to hunt around the wine room that is connected to the main liquor store for the treasures that might be lurking. But if searching for that hidden special bottle doesn’t sound appealing, there are plenty in plain view that are worth stopping by for.

Westchester Liquors has an impressive selection of all varietals, but a look at its variety of cabernet sauvignon is amazing. The crown jewel cab is the 2005 Caymus Vineyards Special Selection ($179.99), but the so-called high-end wines in this section continues with selections from such wineries as Far Niente, Heitz Cellar, Silver Oak, Duckhorn Vineyards, Vina Almaviva and Cakebread Cellars.

But this is just the start at Westchester Liquors. Go for champagne, dessert wines or anything between. And don’t be afraid to hunt for wines. Just like Taylor says, that’s what you do.
 

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