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Posted by Jason Wed Jan 17, 2007 09:48:30 PST
Viewed 401 times
0 responses 0 comments The clock has fallen back, leaves are turning, and the weather, albeit still fickle, is leaning towards winter.  Time to again pay homage to the culinary high priest of the season:  Soup.
The mere mention of the word stirs rich memories and emotions.  Soup, and its brothy and creamy variations, has nursed us, nourished us, and satisfied us. It is the kitchen staple that binds us.
According to The Complete Guide to the Art of Modern Cookery by A. Escoffier, soups were prescribed for invalids since ancient times because they were easily digested.  The modern restaurant industry is said to be based on soup. Restoratifs (from whence the word “restaurant” comes) were the first items served in public restaurants in 18th century Paris. Along came broth, bouillion, and consommé.  Classic French cuisine generated many of the soups we know and enjoy today.  By the late 1800s, soup was an important part of most Americans’ diet. It was a dish both inexpensive and nutritious, economical, yet still considered gourmet, which was tailor made for American consumption.
Escoffier writes that combining various ingredients in a large pot made soup the perfect choice for both the sedentary and world traveler, rich or poor, sick or healthy.  Naturally, stews and pottages evolved according to local ingredients and customs, like New England chowder, Spanish gazpacho, Russian borscht, Italian minestrone, and French onion, among others.
In D. Eleanor and Terence Scully’s book, Early French Cookery, the modern word “soup” derives from the Old French words sope and soupe.  That basic combination of liquid, and a piece of toast with which to consume it, or sop, was typically included in the end-of-the-day meal and became known as “souper “or “supper.”
But you don’t need a history degree or culinary certification to enjoy and appreciate soup.  Google “soup” and you’ll come up with an endless list of recipes. Some of my favorites are contained in the crisp and smart book Soup of the Day by acclaimed author and instructor Lydie Marshall.  Here are a few to get you started. Happy Simmering and Bon Appetit!
                        Continued on page 32 PUMPKIN SOUP

4 pounds pumpkin or squash, not peeled
5 tablespoons olive oil
2 medium onions, sliced
2 teaspoons salt
Freshly ground black pepper
1/8 teaspoon grated nutmeg
5 cups chicken broth
4 ounces of fontina cheese, diced
     
Preheat the oven to 425 degrees. Cut the pumpkin or butternut squash into 2-inch slices.  Do not peel, but scoop out the seeds and cut off the stringy mush.  Brush 2 tablespoons olive oil over the slices and place on a foil-lined cookie sheet with the peel against the foil.   Roast for 30 minutes.
When cool enough to handle, slice off the peel as well as any of the flesh that has burned.  Cut the roasted pumpkin into 2-inch cubes
(about 6 cups).  Heat the remaining olive oil in a 6-quart heavy-bottomed soup pot and add the onions. Cover, reduce the heat, and braise the onions for 5 minutes without coloring.  Stir in the squash and sprinkle with salt, pepper, and nutmeg.  Cover and braise for another 5 minutes.   Pour in the broth, bring to a boil, cover, reduce the heat, and simmer for 20 minutes or until the squash is very tender.
Puree the soup in a blender ladle by ladle, or by using an immersion blender. Reheat the soup; while it is reheating, sprinkle the cheese in the bottom of the soup bowls.  Pour the hot soup over the cheese.  If you are unable to find fontina cheese, try substituting fresh mozzarella.

BASQUE CABBAGE AND BEAN SOUP

2 1/2 pounds savoy cabbage
3 tablespoons olive oil
2 medium onions, sliced
6 garlic cloves, peeled and sliced
2 teaspoons ground, dried chile or espelette
1 1/2 pounds russet potatoes, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch cubes
1 tablespoon salt
3 quarts water
2 cups cooked or canned white navy or cannelloni beans

(Espellette is a seasoning named for the small Basque town where it originates.  It is a mild chile, slightly larger than a jalapeno.  The taste, according to Marshall, is a cross between hot paprika and cayenne pepper.  IGO Foods in San Francisco imports it — (415-567-4796).
Discard the tough dark green leaves of the cabbage, then quarter and cut out the stem.  Cut each piece into thin slices.   In a 6-quart heavy-bottomed pot, heat the oil over medium heat and stir in the onions.  Cover, reduce the heat, and braise for 5 minutes without coloring.  Stir in the garlic and chile and braise for another 5 minutes. Add the cabbage and potatoes.  Sprinkle with salt; stir and add the water.  Bring to a boil, cover, reduce the heat, and simmer for 1 hour.   Add the cooked beans and reheat the soup; taste and correct seasonings before serving. 

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