Bakersfield Life

On the menu this fall

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           Leaves haven’t blanketed the ground and that crisp chill isn’t in the air during September, making it difficult to determine when fall has officially arrived in Bakersfield, especially in 90-degree weather. But an early indicator of the seasonal change is in restaurants around town.
Several fine dining restaurants and casual eateries will soon transition their menus from light summer entrées to rich, comfort foods that warm the soul.
A restaurant with plans to serve its first fall cuisine in early October is Belvedere at the Padre Hotel. Bakersfield may be a meat-and-potatoes kind of town at heart, but Belvedere quickly learned a majority of its patrons enjoy delicate fish dishes — the restaurant’s No. 1 seller.
“We started flying fish in from Hawaii in March. We typically fly fish in two to three times per week,” said Lance Paik, executive sous chef.
Most of the time, the fish are delivered to Belvedere chefs no more than 72 hours after they’re caught. Winter fish like onaga (Hawaiian ruby snapper) will be seared and prepared with uni bisque (sea urchin roe) and served with okinawan, a purple sweet potato mash that’s draped with micro red shiso leaves. Macadamia nut-crusted mahi mahi with lobster butter atop a bed of black imperial rice will transition nicely into Bakersfield’s warm fall.
Besides fish, executive chef Darrell Jensen and Paik, will serve meats like prime short ribs that are braised with an Italian au jus until tender or grilled lamb chops with mashed white beans and grilled zucchini sauced with chimichurri. Salads will be made using winter greens like fennel and deep arugula with pomegranate dressing.  
“Our menu changes every few weeks so people won’t get bored coming here,” said Paik about preparing food on a chef’s whim.
For dessert, pastry chef Chelsea Johnson plans to create an apple tart tatin — an apple tart wrapped in a puff pastry paired with a caramel sauce and vanilla bean ice cream. For chocolate lovers, an Italian dark chocolate mousse with a hint of espresso and rum, covered in a chocolate glaze and served with berries is a perfect dessert.
A restaurant that’s been changing with the seasons for years is Valentien Restaurant and Wine Bar. According to co-owner Jennifer Sanderson, the French bistro will debut its menu on Sept. 22, bringing items from past menus as well as new concoctions.
“In the summer people are typically more diet cautious. In the fall when it starts to cool down, you definitely want that feeling of warm and comfort in your food with signature sauces, heartier sides, root vegetables and potatoes,” Sanderson said.
From peppered filet mignon, lamb in a gluten-free pomegranate reduction, to fish with a cream sauce — there’s something for everyone on Valentien’s menu. Butternut squash salad drizzled with a maple vinaigrette or pumpkin risotto appetizer evoke feelings of fall, while prosciutto-wrapped pork in a spiced apple beurre blanc, served with polenta is a great take on the seasonal transition. For adventurous eaters, an exotic meat dish (antelope, bison, ostrich or wild boar) will rotate every few weeks. 
“We’re trying to get more involved with local independent growers and feature a specific farm every Friday,” Sanderson said.
Besides using produce from nearby farmers, co-owner Jeramy Brown plans to introduce petite coffees and teas, comparable to a wine tasting. The flight of coffees and teas can be tasted every evening either at the table or bar. Smells of different aromas will be released from a French press right in front of customers. Figs mixed with caramels, apples and mascarpone will be used to make crepes among other tasty sweets.  
Valentien recognizes people may be on a budget, often forgoing luxury items while dining out. With this in mind, Valentien will introduce sample sizing of many traditional high-ticket items such as lobster. Instead of eating an entire entrée, people can have a taste with a starter plate that won’t hurt their wallets. Been wanting to try that $80 bottle of wine, but couldn’t spend the money? Sample a glass with dinner or at the bar for $20.
Also feeling the approach of fall is Hourglass Kitchen and Bar, which, like Belvedere, will offer a braised short rib, this one cooked for six hours and served over mashed potatoes with gravy, a side of spinach and baby carrots, all topped with onion straws.
“Our short rib is like the Flintstones. The bone is at one edge of the plate to the other edge — it’s awesome. People who come in and have an appetizer or two can share this dish,” said Paul Hurd, who runs the family business with his wife, Stephanie.
A few popular soup choices will include a pulled pork chile verde soup, clam chowder and a spicy heirloom tomato soup with a black bean and avocado relish.
Hourglass plans to have its fall menu out in September, and its specials will include not just Taco Tuesdays, but Taco Saturdays, where hungry eaters can get gourmet tacos for $2.50 each. On Thursdays, customers can sample the day’s featured wine for free and there will be a wine flight, which starts at $8, and patrons can choose three wines off the list.
Casual eateries like Moo Creamery and the Crest Bar and Grill will use seasonal produce to ensure the freshest flavors are used. At Moo, co-owner Richard Yoshimura said the arrival of the fall menu isn’t dependent on a set date but when nature decides to bring about weather changes, which will phase out certain vegetables.
“Produce seems to be coming in later lately. We had a long spring, so it has not come to its full potential yet,” Yoshimura said.
When the seasonal vegetables and fruits are up to par, Yoshimura said butternut squash soup, a hearty French onion and beef stew will be served.
“We just reflect the season and focus on the autumn holidays like Halloween and Thanksgiving with all the treats, flavors and colors that are associated with it,” Yoshimura said.
Nuts, caramel, maple and pumpkin flavors will be used for ice cream. Other desserts will include apple turnovers, apple-cranberry crisps, maple-flavored whoopie pies and bread puddings.
Within the next month or two, prepare to feast on meatloaf, beef stroganoff with noodles, beef stew and Manhattan clam chowder at the Crest and be sure to check out the restaurant’s weekly specials.